Ladakh

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Author:Laxman Burdak, IFS (Retd.)
Ladakh and its neighbours
Map of Azad Kashmir, Gilgit-Baltistan, Jammu Kashmir, Ladakh, Aksai Chin

Ladakh (Hindi: लद्दाख़; Ladakhi: ལ་དྭགས ; Urdu: لَدّاخ‎) is a region in extreme north of India, bordering Jammu and Kashmir (J&K), Lit. meaning "land of high passes". It is one of the most sparsely populated regions in Himalayan region of north India. The population of Ladakh is mostly follower of Buddhism and its culture and history are closely related to that of Tibet which is its bordering region.

Variants of name

Location

Ladakh is the highest plateau in the state of Jammu & Kashmir with much of it being over 3,000 m. It currently extends from the Kunlun mountain range to the main Great Himalayas to the south, inhabited by people of Indo-Aryan and Tibetan descent. Historically, the region included the Baltistan (Baltiyul) valleys (now mostly in Pakistan), the entire upper Indus Valley, the remote Zanskar, Lahaul and Spiti to the south, much of Ngari including the Rudok region and Guge in the east, Aksai Chin in the northeast (extending to the Kun Lun Mountains), and the Nubra Valley to the north over Khardong La in the Ladakh Range. Contemporary Ladakh borders Tibet to the east, the Lahaul and Spiti regions to the south, the Vale of Kashmir, Jammu and Baltiyul regions to the west, and the southwest corner of Xinjiang across the Karakoram Pass in the far north.

Ladakh got the statehood

Since Indian independence, Ladakh had been a part of J&K state. On 31 October 2019, via a notification[1], the Government of India has split the J&K state in two centrally-administered states (Union Territories) - Jammu & Kashmir and Ladakh. The state of J&K would have a Vidhan Sabha (Assembly) with its summer capital in Srinagar and the winter capital, in Jammu. Ladakh will function without an Assembly because of its low population, and the Lt.-Governor, appointed by Central Government will act as Chief Minister, with residence in its capital city, Leh which is located at a very high plateau, with a small airport too.

History

V. S. Agrawala[2] writes that Panini mentions Pura (IV.2.122) ending names of towns like Lalatapura (Lalāṭapura) - probably in the region called Lalāṭāksha, modern Ladakh, Sabhaparva (47.15)

Rock carvings found in many parts of Ladakh indicate that the area has been inhabited from Neolithic times.[3] Ladakh's earliest inhabitants consisted of a mixed Indo-Aryan population of Mons and Dards,[4] who find mention in the works of Herodotus, who mentions twice a people called Dadikai, first along with the Gandarioi, and again in the catalogue of king Xerxes's army invading Greece. Herodotus also mentions the gold-digging ants of Central Asia.

Ancient history

Rock carvings found in many parts of Ladakh indicate that the area has been inhabited from Neolithic times.[5] Ladakh's earliest inhabitants consisted of nomads known as Kampa.[6] Later settlements were established by Mons from Kullu and Brokpas who originated from Gilgit.[7] Around the 1st century, Ladakh was a part of the Kushan Empire. Buddhism spread into western Ladakh from Kashmir in the 2nd century. The 7th-century Buddhist traveller Xuanzang describes the region in his accounts.[8]Xuanzang's term of Ladakh is Mo-lo-so, which has been reconstructed by academics as Malasa, Marāsa, or Mrāsa, which is believed to have been the original name of the region.[9][10]

For much of the first millennium, the western Tibet comprised Zhangzhung kingdom(s), which practised the Bon religion. Sandwiched between Kashmir and Zhangzhung, Ladakh is believed to have been alternatively under the control of one or other of these powers. Academics find strong influences of Zhangzhung language and culture in "upper Ladakh" (from the middle section of the Indus valley to the southeast).[11] The penultimate king of Zhangzhung is said to have been from Ladakh.[12]

From around 660 CE, Central Tibet and China started contesting the "four garrisons" of the Tarim Basin (present day Xinjiang), a struggle that lasted three centuries. Zhangzhung fell victim to Tibet's ambitions in c. 634 and disappeared for ever. Kashmir's Karkota Empire and the Umayyad Caliphate too joined the contest for Xinjiang soon afterwards. Baltistan and Ladakh were at the centre of these struggles.[13] Academics infer from the slant of Ladakhi chronicles that Ladakh may have owed its primary allegiance to Tibet during this time, but that it was more political than cultural. Ladakh remained Buddhist and its culture was not yet Tibetan.[14]

Pliny, In the 1st century, repeats that the Dards were great producers of gold.

Ptolemy situates the Daradrai on the upper reaches of the Indus.

Dards find mention by Nearchus, Megasthenes and in the geographical lists of the Puranas.[15] Around the 1st century, Ladakh was a part of the Kushana empire.

Buddhism spread into western Ladakh from Kashmir in the 2nd century when much of eastern Ladakh and western Tibet was still practising the Bon religion. The 7th century Buddhist traveler Xuanzang describes the region in his accounts. [16] Xuanzang describes a journey from Ch'u-lu-to (Kuluta, Kullu) to Lo-hu-lo (Lahul), then goes on saying that "from there to the north, for over 2000 li, the road is very difficult, with cold wind and flying snow"; thus one arrives in the kingdom of Mo-lo-so, or Mar-sa, synonymous with Mar-yul, a common name for Ladakh. Elsewhere, the text remarks that Mo-lo-so, also called San-po-ho borders with Suvarnagotra or Suvarnabhumi (Land of Gold), identical with the Kingdom of Women (Strirajya). According to Tucci, the Zan-zun kingdom, or at least its southern districts were known by this name by the 7th century Indians.

Ladakh is renowned for its remote mountain beauty and culture. Aksai Chin is one of the disputed border areas between China and India.[6] It is administered by China as part of Hotan County but is also claimed by India as a part of the Ladakh region of the state of Jammu and Kashmir. In 1962, China and India fought a brief war over Aksai Chin and Arunachal Pradesh, but in 1993 and 1996 the two countries signed agreements to respect the Line of Actual Control.[17]

In the past Ladakh gained importance from its strategic location at the crossroads of important trade routes,[18] but since the Chinese authorities closed the borders with Tibet and Central Asia in the 1960s, international trade has dwindled except for tourism. Since 1974, the Government of India has successfully encouraged tourism in Ladakh. Since Ladakh is a part of strategically important Jammu and Kashmir, the Indian military maintains a strong presence in the region.

The largest town in Ladakh is Leh, followed by Kargil.[19] Almost half of Ladakhis are Shia Muslims and the rest are mostly Tibetan Buddhists.[20]

In terms of pronunciation, the use of ..."Ladakh, the Persian transliteration of the Tibetan La-dvags, is warranted by the pronunciation of the word in several Tibetan districts."[21]

In Mahabharata

Lalataksha (ललाटाक्ष) in Mahabharata (II.47.15)

Sabha Parva, Mahabharata/Book II Chapter 47 mentions the Kings who brought tributes to Yudhishthira. Lalataksha (ललाटाक्ष) is mentioned in Mahabharata (II.47.15) [22]

Rivers in Ladakh

Indus River: The Indus River is a major river which flows through China, India and Pakistan. Originating in the Tibetan plateau of western China in the vicinity of Lake Mansarovar in Tibet Autonomous Region, the river runs a course through the Ladakh district of Jammu and Kashmir Province of India and then enters Pakistan via the Northern Areas (Gilgit-Baltistan) The total length of the river is 3,180kms and it is Pakistan's longest river.

Suru River - The Suru River is a river in Jammu and Kashmir that forms the western and northern boundary of the Zanskar Range. The river forms in the Zanskar Region of Ladakh after melting from the glaciers on the high mountains in this region, and flows through Kargil. The Suru River merges with Dras River coming from Dras, 5 km ahead of Kargil and enters Pakistan side Kashmir (PSK) through Post 43 (India) and Post 44 (PSK), which is further 5 km ahead from the point of merger of Dras River and Suru River.

Zanskar River - The Zanskar River is a north-flowing tributary of the Indus. In its upper reaches, the Zanskar has two main branches. First of these, the Doda, has its source near the Pensi La 14,450 ft (4,400 m) mountain-pass and flows south-eastwards along the main Zanskar valley leading towards Padum, the capital of Zanskar. The second branch is formed by two main tributaries known as Kargyag river, with its source near the Shingo La 16,703 ft (5,091 m), and Tsarap river, with its source near the Baralacha La. These two rivers unite below the village of Purne to form the Lungnak river (also known as the Lingti or Tsarap). The Lungnak river then flows north-westwards along a narrow gorge towards Zanskar's central valley (known locally as gzhung khor), where it unites with the Doda river to form the main Zanskar river. This river then takes a north-eastern course through the dramatic Zanskar Gorge until it joins the Indus near Nimmu in Ladakh.

Doda River: The Doda is a river in Jammu and Kashmir. It flows through the Ladakh. The source of the river is the Drang Drung glacier of the Pensi La. The river flows into the Padum Valley, and joins with the Tsarap River to form the larger Zanskar River.

Tsarap River: The Tsarap or Tsarap Chu is a river in Jammu and Kashmir. It flows through the Zanskar region of the state of Ladakh. The river joins with the Doda River to form the larger Zanskar River.

Nubra River: The Nubra River is a tributary of the Shyok River, which flows through the Nubra Valley in North Ladakh, into the Indus River to the east of Skardu, Pakistan. It originates from the Siachen glacier, also behaves like the Shyok. Before Tirit the southeast flowing river Nubra takes a northwest turn on meeting the river Shyok. The similarity in the courses of these two important rivers probably indicates a series of paleo fault lines trending northwest-southeast in delimiting the upper courses of the rivers.

Shyok River: The Shyok River flows through northern Ladakh in India and the Northern Areas of Pakistan (Ghangche District), spanning some 550 km. The Shyok River, a tributary of the Indus River, originates from the Rimo Glacier, one of the tongues of Siachen Glacier. The river widens at the confluence with the Nubra River. The alignment of the Shyok river is very unusual, originating from the Rimo glacier, it flows in a south easternly direction and joining the Pangong range, it takes a northwestern turn, flowing parallel to its previous path. The Shyok flows in a wide valley, entering a narrow gorge after Chalunka and continuing through Turtuk and Tyakshi before crossing into Pakistan. The Shyok joins the Indus at Keris, to the east of the town of Skardu. The importance of the Indus and the Shyok rivers is in the deposition of the thick Quaternary sediments—a treasure trove for geology researchers.

Markha River: The Markha River is a river in Ladakh. It is a tributary of the Zanskar River. The Markha river flows through the Markha Valley , which is one of the most popular trekking routes in Ladakh. Above the valley is the Kang Yatze mountain.

Source - http://www.ladakh.com/ladakh-info/rivers

ललाटाक्ष = ललाताक्ष

ललाटाक्ष = ललाताक्ष = लदाख (AS, p.812): विजयेन्द्र कुमार माथुर[23] ने लेख किया है ..... ललाटाक्ष अथवा 'ललाताक्ष' नामक प्राचीन स्थान का उल्लेख महाभारत, सभापर्व में हुआ है- 'द्वयक्षांस्त्र्यक्षाल्लंलाटाक्षान् (=ललाताक्षान्) नानादिग्भ्य: समागतान्, औष्णीकानन्त वासांश्च रोमकान् पुरुषाकान्।'महाभारत, सभापर्व 51,17. इस प्रसंग में युधिष्ठिर के राजसूय यज्ञ में विदेशों से भांति-भांति के उपहार लेकर आने वाले विभिन्न लोगों के वर्णन में 'ललाटाक्षों' (ललाताक्षों) का उल्लेख भी किया गया है। विद्वानों के मत में द्वय्क्ष, बदख्शां, त्र्यक्ष, तरखान तथा ललाटाक्ष 'लदाख' या 'लद्दाख' है। ऐसा प्रतीत होता है कि महाभारतकार ने यहाँ विदेशी नामों को संस्कृत में रूपांतरित करके लिखा है। वैसे इन शब्दों को टीकाकारों ने सार्थक बनाने का प्रयत्न किया है, जैसे- ललाटाक्ष को ललाट पर आंखों वाले [p.813]: मनुष्य कहा गया है। उपर्युक्त श्लोक में संभवतः इन सभी विदेशी लोगों को पगड़ी धारण करने वाला कहा गया है। (दे. द्वय्क्ष, त्र्यक्ष)

द्वय्क्ष

विजयेन्द्र कुमार माथुर[24] ने लेख किया है ...द्वय्क्ष (AS, p.461) महाभारतकालीन एक प्रदेश था। महाभारत के उपायन अनुपर्व में युधिष्ठिर के राजसूय यज्ञ में नाना प्रकार के उपहार लाने वाले विदेशियों में 'द्वय्क्ष' तथा 'त्र्यक्ष' नाम के लोग भी हैं- 'द्वय्क्षांस्त्र्क्षाल्ललाटाक्षान् नानादिग्भ्य: समागतान्, औष्णीकान त्तवासांश्च रोमकान् पुरुषादकान्'। उपर्युक्त प्रसंगानुसार द्वय्क्ष भारत की उत्तर-पश्चिमी सीमा के परवर्ती प्रदेशों में रहने वाले लोग जान पड़ते हैं। कुछ विद्वानों का मत है कि द्वय्क्ष बदख्शाँ का और त्र्यक्ष तरखान का प्राचीन भारतीय नाम है। ये प्रदेश आजकल अफ़ग़ानिस्तान तथा दक्षिणी रूस में हैं। इन्हें उपर्युक्त उल्लेख में संभवत: औष्णीष या पगड़ी धारण करने वाला कहा गया है। ललाटाक्ष संभवत: लद्दाख का नाम है। (दे. त्र्यक्ष, ललाटाक्ष)

त्र्यक्ष

विजयेन्द्र कुमार माथुर[25] ने लेख किया है ...त्र्यक्ष (AS, p.419): त्र्यक्ष तथा 'द्वय्क्ष' देशों से आये हुए लोगों का उल्लेख महाभारत में हुआ है। ये लोग पाण्डव युधिष्ठिर के राजसूय यज्ञ में भाग लेने आये थे। प्रसंग से ये लोग भारत की उत्तर-पश्चिमी सीमा के परिवर्ती प्रदेशों के निवासी जान पड़ते हैं। 'द्वय्क्षांस्त्रयक्षार्ल्लेटाक्षान् नानादिग्भ्य: समागतान् औष्णीकानन्तवासांश्च रोमकान् पुरुषादकान्। एकपादांश्चतत्राहमपश्यं द्वारिवातितान्'। महाभारत, सभापर्व 51, 17-18. यहाँ दुर्योधन ने युधिष्ठिर के राजसूय यज्ञ में विदेशों से उपहार लेकर आने वाले विभिन्न देशवासियों का वर्णन किया है। इनमें 'द्वय्क्ष' तथा 'त्र्यक्ष' देशों से आए हुए लोग भी शामिल थे। ये लोग भारत की उत्तर-पश्चिमी सीमा के परिवर्ती प्रदेशों के निवासी माने गये हैं। कुछ विद्वानों के मत में त्र्यक्ष, 'तरखान' (दक्षिणी रूस में स्थित) का नाम है और 'द्वय्क्ष' बदख़शां का। उपर्युक्त उद्धरण में इन लोगों को औष्णीय या पगड़ी धारण करने वाला बताया गया है, जो इन ठंडे प्रदेशों के निवासियों के लिए स्वाभाविक बात मानी जा सकती है। (दे. द्वय्क्ष, ललाटाक्ष)

External links

References

  1. ↑ [1]
  2. ↑ V. S. Agrawala: India as Known to Panini, 1953, p.64
  3. ↑ Loram, Charlie (2004) [2000]. Trekking in Ladakh (2nd ed.). Trailblazer Publications.
  4. ↑ Ray, John (2005). Ladakhi Histories — Local and Regional Perspectives. Leiden, Netherlands: Koninklijke Brill NV.
  5. ↑ Loram, Charlie (2004) [2000]. Trekking in Ladakh (2nd ed.). Trailblazer Publications.
  6. ↑ Zutshi, Rattan (13 January 2016). My Journey of Discovery. Partridge Publishing. p. 126. ISBN 978-1-4828-4140-4.
  7. ↑ Zutshi, Rattan (13 January 2016). My Journey of Discovery. Partridge Publishing. p. 126. ISBN 978-1-4828-4140-4.
  8. ↑ Petech, The Kingdom of Ladakh (1977), p. 7: Xuanzang describes a journey from Ch'u-lu-to (Kuluta, Kullu) to Lo-hu-lo (Lahul), then goes on saying that "from there to the north, for over 2000 li, the road is very difficult, with cold wind and flying snow; thus one arrives in the kingdom of Mo-lo-so". Petech states, "geographically speaking, the region thus indicated is unmistakably Ladakh."
  9. ↑ Petech, Luciano (1977), The Kingdom of Ladakh, c. 950–1842 A.D. (PDF), Instituto Italiano Per il Medio ed Estremo Oriente – via academia.edu,p.7-8
  10. ↑ Howard, Neil; Howard, Kath (2014), "Historic Ruins in the Gya Valley, Eastern Ladakh, and a Consideration of Their Relationship to the History of Ladakh and Maryul", Ibid, pp. 68–99, ISBN 9789004271807, p. 86.
  11. ↑ Zeisler, Bettina (2011), "Kenhat, The Dialects of Upper Ladakh and Zanskari", Himalayan Languages and Linguistics: Studies in Phonology, Semantics, Morphology and Syntax, BRILL, p. 293, ISBN 978-90-04-21653-2: "While the whole of Ladakh and adjacent regions were originally populated by speakers of Eastern Iranian (Scythian), Lower Ladakh (as well as Baltistan) was also subject to several immigration waves of Indoaryan (Dardic) speakers and other groups from Central Asia. Upper Ladakh and the neighbouring regions to the east, by contrast, seem to have been populated additionally by speakers of a non-Tibetan Tibeto-Burman language, namely West Himalayan (Old Zhangzhung;...)."
  12. ↑ ellezza, John Vincent (2014), The Dawn of Tibet: The Ancient Civilization on the Roof of the World, Rowman & Littlefield Publishers, p. 101, ISBN 978-1-4422-3462-8
  13. ↑ Fisher, Rose & Huttenback, Himalayan Battleground (1963), pp. 12–15: "Ladakh's geographical position leaves no room for doubt that its ancient caravan routes must have often served as a path first for conquest and then for retreat of the opposing armies as they alternated between victory and defeat."
  14. ↑ Fisher, Rose & Huttenback, Himalayan Battleground (1963), pp. 15–16.
  15. ↑ Petech, Luciano (1977). The Kingdom of Ladakh c. 950–1842 A.D. Istituto Italiano per il media ed Estremo Oriente.
  16. ↑ See The Kingdom of Ladakh c. 950–1842 A.D., Istituto Italiano per il media ed Estremo Oriente, 1977.
  17. ↑ "India-China Border Dispute". GlobalSecurity.org.
  18. ↑ Rizvi, Janet (2001). Trans-Himalayan Caravans – Merchant Princes and Peasant Traders in Ladakh. Oxford India Paperbacks.
  19. ↑ Osada et al. (2000), p. 298.
  20. ↑ Rizvi, Janet (1996). Ladakh — Crossroads of High Asia. Oxford University Press.
  21. ↑ Francke(1926) Vol. I, p. 93, notes.
  22. ↑ द्वयक्षांस त्र्यक्षाँल ललाटाक्षान नानादिग्भ्य: समागतान्, औष्णीषान अनिवासांश च बाहुकान पुरुषादकान (II.47.15)
  23. ↑ Aitihasik Sthanavali by Vijayendra Kumar Mathur, p.812
  24. ↑ Aitihasik Sthanavali by Vijayendra Kumar Mathur, p.461
  25. ↑ Aitihasik Sthanavali by Vijayendra Kumar Mathur, p.419

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